There have
been many fashion houses throughout the history of fashion, however the Paris couture house Callot
sisters was one that became very popular in the 1900's because of its luxurious
designs. It first opened in 1985 and was operated by four sisters, Marie
Gerber, Marthe Bertrand, Regine Tennyson-Chantrelle and Josephine Crimont. The sisters were all very artistic since they
came from a mother who was a talented lace maker and a father who was an artist
that came from a family of lace makers and engravers.
Callot Sisters 1985-1937 |
The sisters were all interested in dressmaking at a young age because of the influence of their parents. The eldest sister Marie was trained in dressmaking and the rest of the sisters were taught by their mother. They began working with antique laces and ribbons to enhance different garments. This talent led to the success of their couture house. Before opening the house, the sisters owned a shop that sold antique lace, ribbons and lingerie which is where the practiced and received their inspirations.
The Callot Sisters Couture House |
The couture house was located on Rue Taitbout in Paris, France. The décor of the sisters salon reflected the Orient and eighteenth-century rococo design which is why they welcomed their customers in a Chinese style room which was decorated with dynasty silks and Louis XV furniture. They carried daywear, tailored suits and evening dresses in their salon but they were best known for their exotic evening dress influenced by the East. The couture house became very famous rapidly because they took part in the Paris Exposition Universelle, which displayed dresses along respected designers at the time such as Doucet and Paquin. By the 1900’s the sisters were employing over 600 workers and had clientele in Europe and America. The Callot sisters were one of the first designers to use gold and silver lame to make dresses and this gave their clothing an exotic detail.
"Simple clothing with wonderful embroidery" |
Printed silk voile embroidered with sequins and glass bugle beads, and trimmed with lace |
The Callot sister’s evening gowns featured styles from the
eighteenth century which included tightly corseted waists, wide hoop skirts,
and floral designs. Their gowns were made from pastel coloured tulle and brocades.
During the 1910’s the sister’s dresses became very popular with actresses and
high society women. Although the sisters
were known for their exotic look they also encompassed techniques that came
from Africa and Asia. The sisters would take different elements from the two
continents and design it into one garment. The sisters liked using fauvist colours and
rich Eastern colours when they designed their Asian influenced garments.
1911 Evening Dress |
As for their day clothes the Callot sisters introduced tea
gowns that were mostly made out of silk and chiffon. In 1914 the sisters
introduced a new and different style called the shirtwaist dress. This dress
became very popular and fashionable at this time.
1913
The Callot sisters had a reputation for their detailed work.
They set very high standards which is why they were successful with their
couture house. In 1914 the Callot Sisters became involved with a group called
the Le Syndicat de Defense de la Grande couture Francaise. This group was made
to ensure that rules were set in place so that their original designs were protected
from copy houses that were selling their garments without permission.
The Callot sisters were known for the dresses but they had a
wide variety of garments. Their collections also included handbags and coats.
1910-1915 Linen/Silk Bag
1910-1915 Linen/Silk Bag
1908-1910 Evening coat made of silk
1920 Jacket made of silk and fur
Although the Callot Sisters were very popular with the
opening of their Couture house by 1926 the House of Callot began to
decline. The sisters could not compete
with the new clothes made by designers such as Chanel and because of this their
designs no longer appealed to the modern career woman. In 1928, the eldest Callot sister, Madam
Gerber decided to let her son Pierre take over the business. In 1937 when Madam
Gerber decided to retire, the House of Callot became part of the House of Calvet
which constantly expanded and today is still known for its popular bags and
luggage. Unfortunately most of the Callot
designs are forgotten however they are still popular with collectors and are very
expensive.
Work Cited
Fashion 1900. Callot Soeurs.
http://www.victoriana.com/GazetteduBonTon/designerdresses.html
Clothing and Fashion Encyclopedia. Callot Sisters. 2010.
http://angelasancartier.net/callot-sisters
http://angelasancartier.net/callot-sisters
The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Callot Soeurs.
http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80093745?pkgids=63
http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80093745?pkgids=63
Callot Sisters History of Fashion. A leading fashion house in the history of fashion. 2011
http://www.fashioncollections.org/history-of-fashion/callot-sisters-history-fashion/
http://www.fashioncollections.org/history-of-fashion/callot-sisters-history-fashion/
Fashion Designers. The Callot Sisters.
http://jewelryaccessories.com/fashion-designers/334-callot-sisters.html
http://jewelryaccessories.com/fashion-designers/334-callot-sisters.html